Material |
Thickness |
Speed/Power/Frequency |
Masonite |
1/8" |
20?/60?/500 |
Masonite |
1/4" |
9/85/500 |
Baltic Birch |
1/8" |
20/100/500 |
Baltic Birch |
1/4" |
7/65/500 |
Baltic Birch |
3/8" (doesn't work too well) |
7/75/500 (2 passes) |
Styrene |
1 mm |
20/80/5000 |
Styrene |
1.5 mm |
20/50/5000 (2 passes) |
FR4 (PCB) |
0.062" |
15/100/5000 (one pass from each side1) |
Delrin |
0.015" |
100/55/500 |
Adhesive backed Mylar |
0.02" |
20/4/500 2 45/4/5003 |
Adhesive backed labels/nametags |
??? |
35/4/500 |
1 You need to flip the board over and cut from the other side. Registration is fairly important so the cuts are lined up. I've had trouble using the top right corner, so top left is probably your best bet. After cutting you should be able to snap along the cut easily. Cleanup by wiping down with alcohol; optionally you can run the cut sides on the belt sander to remove some charing. You cannot cut through traces/pads.
2 Mylar side up.
3 Mylar side down (slightly better quality cut, smaller kerf).
If you need to align cuts/engraving with something already present on the workpiece, I've found that the top left corner of the work area and the
CorelDraw? worksheet are slightly off. If you shift the image left by 0.013" and down by 0.013" in Corel the alignment is almost perfect.