Crimp | Open Hand Grip | ||
Gaston | Jug | ||
Pinch | Sidepull | ||
Sloper | Undercling |
Finger Cracks
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THUMBS UP - PINKY JAM | |
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1. For the thinnest cracks, use a thumbs up position to allow you to slot your pinky and ring finger. Look for a constriction in the crack and slide your hand in above it and pull down to set the jam. | 2. You'll get a secure jam if you can slot your first knuckle just above the constriction so it gets wedged in tight when you pull down. For a tighter lock, cam your hand inward, towards your thumb. |
THUMBS DOWN | |
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1. When the cracks get a little wider, insert your hand in the thumbs down position to use the index and middle fingers. | 2. Note how the fingers stack on one another, putting as many digits in the crack as possible. Again, twisting your hand inward increases the counter pressure for a more secure lock. |
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1. As the crack widens you may be able to slot the thumb too. | 2. Stack your fingers and cam your hand by rotating your elbow inward. |
Hand Cracks
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Too large to get good finger jams, but perfect for the hand, notice how you can create oppositional pressure by cupping your fingers and flexing your thumb. As with finger cracks, you can slot a hand jam in the thumbs up or thumbs down position. Experiment with both. How do the different positions affect your arm position and your body position? |
THUBMS UP - HAND JAM | ||
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1. Make your hand as thin as possible and slide it in the crack, moving it up and down to feel around for constrictions in the crack that you may not be able to see. | 2. To create counter pressure you can cup you hand pressing your fingers on one side and your knuckles on the other. To fatten your palm flex your thumb down as if you were trying to touch it to the base of your pinky. | As the crack widens, notice how your fingers pull down even further in a "crimped" position. |
Fist Cracks
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Uh oh! too wide for a hand jam... what to do? | |
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As the crack widens notice how the fingers are crimped all the way down, but they are beginning to lose purchase on the right side of the crack. | Turn your fist palm down and ball up your fist, clenching tight to expand the fleshy part of your palm to create counter pressure. |